A Yarnery Sort of Post

It occurs to me that dyeing all this yarn & top, then failing to show it off is not really good for business. So, with an aim of improving that habit, for your spinning or knitting pleasure, some as-yet-unnamed, soon to be on Etsy, yarns and fibres.

If interested, inquire by email to LoftyFibres AT Gmail dotcom, or LoftyFibres on Twitter - we'll catch up! Just tell me something like "third braid from the top", as I don't have names for these yet!

All fibre braids are ~ 4 oz, unique dye lots, and $20 Cdn (shipping can be done if needed, will be extra).

Merino-Seacell top:

First braid is sold! Sorry (but I have to leave it here to show off!)

Blue Face Leicester Top:

All the yarns in this batch are LoftySocks+, the super-boingy merino-nylon blend that makes great, washable socks, gloves, fine garments, or lace. Each skein is 380+ metres (over 400 yards) and about 110 or more grams, enough for a pair of socks. Skeins are $20 if bought off the blog (contact me if shipping is needed), no tax no fees.






This next one has been claimed:
This one has been claimed:

MacGyvering the Katie, Episode 2

So, if you have a look back to my August 27 post, you'll see Episode 1, with a bit of background explanation of why I feel the need to hack my beloved JourneyWheel, or, more specifically her bobbins (yes, my wheel is a girl. I don't know why. Her name is Monique). Can't tension the bobbins for plying.

Episode 1 resulted in a quick-and-dirty improvised hack that did the job, but not completely or with any finesse. Frictioning the bobbins on my Lazy Kate (I'm not sure I've ever heard why the device is called that) does work to a point, but it's not precisely controllable or adjustable the way a proper tensioning system is. My brain kept noodling away on the problem, and I've spent the last couple of weeks collecting the pieces it came up with to build a truly tensionable adaptation for the JourneyWheel Bobbins.

Here are the materials:

1. Of course, my Lazy Kate and JW bobbins.
2. Some "treaded" toy wheels from Lee Valley. I found these in their online catalogue, item #41k01.68. Since my gene pool lives in a city that has a Lee Valley retail outlet, my sis picked them up for me. About $0.80 each.
3. This interesting substance known as Sugru, which, when contemplating this problem I remembered reading about online somewhere, and went back and looked up. Now, I didn't know much about it other than what the Sugru company themselves were promoting, but it sounded darned neat, and was not a huge investment to buy a Smart Hacks Super Pack. Having played with it now, I can say it's a unique and quite fun substance, and certainly did this job well. Imagine a hybrid of plasticine and rubber cement, in pretty, bright colours.

Here was the basic idea. Use the Sugru to mold a "plug" that would connect into the locking end of my JourneyWheel bobbin, which is where the bobbin clicks into the flyer. Stick that plug to the flat side of the unfinished wood toy wheel. Let it cure (bobbin DISconnected while curing), to result in a toy wheel that could tightly "plug in" and "unplug" from the bobbin, and then be put on the Lazy Kate, with the tensioning string run around the "treads" on the rim of the toy wheel.

Notes:

I chose to use the orange packets of my Smart Hacks Super Pack first - thinking, if they worked, fine, and if I had to scrape it off and start over, orange was my least favourite colour. It turned out to be the better choice for a different reason. I noted that the colour in the Sugru will slightly stain the wood. I scrubbed most of it off the bobbin with no trouble, but the orange dye was probably closest to the natural tone of the wood for the bobbin - the blue or green might have left a more obvious stain.

So,while the little 5 gm lump didn't look like a lot, and I originally broke out two packets to mold the first "plug", it turned out I didn't need two, and I redistributed for the 2nd and 3rd adapter so those actually had less than one packet each. I'd already got the molding right for the first, so didn't want to peel it all off.

In order to mold the plug, I pressed the Sugru onto the toy wheel, then used the bobbin end to push onto the lump and mold the right shape.

This led to a few trial-and-error attempts when the Sugru stuck to the bobbin and came off the toy wheel, but I tried a few times and found that pressing the bobbin lightly and pulling away quickly made enough of a mold for this to work - it wasn't necessary to press the two pieces together very hard. One thing that I was going to resort to if I still had trouble was buffing the JourneyWheel bobbins with my waxy/oily Wood Beams polish, which would probably protect the wood from sticking, while the unfinished toy wheel would stay more adherent. I didn't need that in the end.

I used a wide soda straw through the centre of the toy wheel and the lumps of sugru, to keep a hole open, as the whole thing in the end has to fit over a thin rod on the Katie. Rolling the straw around the inside of the molded lump opened an even hole in the Sugru of the same diameter as the toy wheel hole, which is 3/8", which should be adequate to fit over the posts of any Lazy Kate model I've encountered yet.

So, after a little bit of fiddling, and then 48 hours to cure (it cures to 3 mm in 24 hours, according to product info, I left it longer as it was bigger lumps), I tried connecting it all up.

"Plugged in" the bobbins, loaded the bobbin-plus-wheel assembly onto Kate, and ran the tension string around the grooves in the wheel. Ta-DAAA! Adjustable, tensioned JourneyWheel bobbins for your plying pleasure. Now I just have to get the time to ply all these bobbins of yarn I have.

One thing remains to be discovered. I'm not sure how to pronounce Sugru. Soo-groo? SUG-roo? Or is the SU as in "sugar" - Shug-roo? Let me know.

Getting Tense, or MacGyvering the Katie

I'm in Haliburton this week, hacking my way through the classroom part of the OHS Handspinning Certificate Year 3.

Those of you who know my spinning know my only wheel is a Bosworth JourneyWheel, and know that I love it - it's an exquisite piece of art and engineering, and an incredible tool. There is only one aspect of the machine I would consider, well, slightly sub-optimal, and that is the bobbin design. There are only two ways in which I would articulate this, one of which has not bothered me much so far. The first is the bobbin size. They are small, it's a challenge to pack on more than 50 grams of yarn. This is OK, I knew this when I bought it, and I'm not a production spinner (yet!). I'm content to make 50-60 gram skeins of yarn, for that's enough for one sock and a common size in commercial yarn balls.

The second shortcoming, though, wasn't apparent until I got the wheel and has only become an issue, really, since starting the OHS course, but it needs some redress. The bobbins cannot be tensioned for plying. I know Mr. Bosworth believes they don't need to be, but I respectfully disagree. There is some frictional "drag" on the bobbin when it just rests on a Lazy Kate, however, this is not enough if trying to ply high-energy singles which will ZING off the Kate at a first pull of take-up then coil back on themselves.

As we are required in this year's class to work exercises in 3-ply yarns with tension on the bobbins, I'm struggling with this. The bobbins needed more resistance, but it's not possible to do so with tension. So, I turned to increasing the friction between the bobbin end and the surface of the Kate. I tried some different materials, and now have a couple of different options for this. Here's the how-to for what I ended up with.

Materials had to be sourced from what there was, but a trip to a grocery mart and dollar store procured a few possibly helpful substances: non-slip shelf liner, a thin plastic cutting mat or placemat, and a variety pack of little stick-on feet like you'd put under a plant pot or something to keep it from marking surfaces.

I used my bobbin as a template and traced and cut out circles of the shelf liner, and the plastic sheet.

The shelf liner circles alone provided TOO MUCH resistance, and the bobbins could not spin - somewhat expected. Note in the above picture that the little stick-on feet came in two sizes in each of two materials - cork, and a non-slip rubber similar to the shelf liner.

I cut plastic disks, and tried both sizes of both types of feet on either side of a disk.

After trying each version out for spin and drag, I felt that the smaller rubber feet on one side, with the larger cork on the other, provided the best resistance for the 3-plying I was doing this week. Note that the disks can be flipped, and because of the type of Lazy Kate I have, they will drag differently depending on which side is against the bobbin and which against the Kate.

Here's a better view of how it fits. Black dots up - less drag, I think, as the black will stick to the bobbin and the cork will slip, with some friction on the Kate. Cork dots up, the black will stick to the Kate, but not as much surface is in contact, and the cork will have all its surface in contact with the bobbin.

Or maybe these work out the same - I obviously haven't calculated all the physics of it.

Here's the final set up with one bobbin. Still not perfect - for example, tension in spinning changes dynamically, and there's no way to "adjust" these. They can still tangle, or if the drag is too much, the Kate comes flying forward. However, it did the trick for now, and I have another idea in mind for a mod, though it's going to require some woodwork to do it.

Off to adequately ply some homework, for now.

Batts in the Shop!

So, it's been a bit of a breather this weekend - not quite sure what to do with myself, it's been a while since I had a real "downtime", and two days in a row, even!

I celebrated but updating the Etsy shop (look right) with my latest creations you saw previewed here last post.  Half a dozen batts are up, some more have been sent out to local spinners for testing, and there's more to do with the carder.  I'll be mocking up a banner for next month's Ravelry listing shortly.

Here's a couple more creations.  This is another batt now up in the shop:

Purple-Black Batt

It's a little hard to see the colour subtlety there - it's a batt of black Merino and purple-dyed Romney locks, lovely and subtle. I have more of this black merino, so look for some more dark & jeweled blends.

Here's a little tease, and this one's NOT going to make it into the shop:

Icy Polwarth

Close Up - looks like marble

That was a one-of-a-kind, took every scrap of some long-staple Polwarth leftovers, to which was added little drips-and-drabs of seacell in various pale, cool colours, and then the tiniest dusting of Angelina for sparkle.  It's not going up in the shop 'cuz it promptly went here:

Into the drink?

It's busy with my Purpleheart Bosworth Midi - I'm working it into a worsted-weight single for some fluffy, warm, winter yarn.  The Scotch container (and similar wine/liquor bottle gift tubes) turned out to be a perfect spindle project case - I'm probably going to knit some bag handles for them, if I ever get through my current heap of projects.

Lofty's Going Batty

Popping in here for another "It's about time!" post.  This one - it's about time for BATTS!

A year ago I invested in a very nice Pat Greene drum carder.  The small model - Deb's Delicate Deluxe, hand-turned.  It arrived, and I had a plan to use it at May workshop on carding/blending which got cancelled due to low enrollment - and there it has sat, for a year and more.

This weekend, I had a few friends over, put out some snacks, and organized a kick in the butt for myself.  The drum carder, which I have now named DeeDee, was duly christened.  Here's the first production run!

Batt(s) 1:  Superwash merino mill ends, handpainted in a mesh bag and now carded into this lovely, streaky, "Beachy" watercolour-way:

Those are in fact the same dye lot - the color layering pulled out differently.  A spinner could be quite adventurous in how they work up, mix'n'match, or keep separate and coordinate.

Batt(s) The Second:  A blend of the SW merino mill ends and some lovely soft Romeny lamb locks.  I have dyed bagfuls of each, and when it came to blending picked adjacent colours (blue-green/green, yellow-green/green,violet/magenta-red) to make more monochrome but beautifully rich, heathered batts.

Batt(s) the Third:  Using the same adjacent-colour blending, these last two are 100% Romney lamb.  The dyes were bright jewel-tones, but on gray fleece.  Made some lovely toned colours.

I have to show you a close-up of the last one: 

I like that one enough that it might not make it into the Etsy shop.

More fluffy adventures are to come!  There may need to be more dyeing, but I've begun rootling the fluff stash too for some little add-in goodies like seacell/silk fibres, angelina (sparkles!), and some lovely blending bits of mohair, alpaca, and llama.

Socks on Circulars 101 - Lofty Fibres class coming up

And isn't it about time?!?!??

This coming Saturday, June 26th, I'm looking forward to getting back in my yarney groove, and hopefully corrupting some new soles for my next offering of handknit sock teaching.  I'll be offering my basic Socks on Circulars at All Strung Out in Guelph.  Class is a 6-hour, two part workshop, the first part 10 am to 1 pm this Saturday, and part 2 at the same time, July 10th.  You have two weeks between for lots of practice and progress on your socks!  Head over to the link above, or call the shop at 519-772-6807 to book a spot (if any are left!  If not, be sure to leave your name for the next offering.)


The class covers a basic architecture for a toe-up sock.  Knitting from the toe up has many advantages.  For one - no risk of running out of yarn with one toe left to go!  You can knit as long a leg as you like, being sure, as your foot is already done, you'll have enough yarn (a shorter sock still works - a toe-less sock maybe not!) There are no stitches to pick up on the heel flap, no uneven sides.  We'll cover a straightforward formula for gusset increases that works well for most feet out there, and discuss a few modifications for when it doesn't.


The class is aimed at the ambitious beginner to intermediate knitter, whether you've knit a sock before or not.  Those who have knit socks may wish to turn things a new way up, and those who haven't - well, this is a great method to start.


A pattern "recipe" as well as book and pattern references will be provided at the class.  I don't teach to one specific pattern, as this is a class about structure and technique, which will enable the student to pick up any toe-up sock pattern and work from these basics.  You're welcome to bring books and patterns if you'd like to discuss, or try them out.

Required Materials:

Yarn: 40-50 grams of DK to worsted weight yarn, in solid, light colours - leftovers are fine! This is for practice/test exercises.

Needles: 3 mm to 4 mm needles

 - 2 circulars, 16 to 24 inch, OR

 - 1 long circular, 32 to 36 inch

 - for test exercises, can also use straights or two DPNs as straights (heel turn practice)

Clip-on stitch markers

Scrap yarn or string for holding stitches if needed

Writing materials for notes.

Nice to have: (we can improvise or share if students do not have everything):

Crochet hook or "stitch saver"

Darning needle

Small scissors or yarn cutter

Optional:

Finer sock yarn, for those who wish to start a kids or full-size sock.

Extra needles of the size required for your DK/Worsted yarn

Finer needles for your (optional) sock yarn

Stitch patterns, sock patterns, or sock books you wish to discuss.

Required knowledge: The workshop assumes the participant knows a knit stitch, purl stitch, and understands the idea of an increase or decrease (lifted increase, kf&b, ssk, k2tog).  A very enthusiastic new knitter could cover these basics shortly before the class.

Staying Warm and Fuzzy in the Winter

Well, I've finally managed.  Look over there, on the right, the Etsy Mini....

Yep, I have some fibre up.  New to the Etsy store (as wholesale has been picking up all the fibre I could dye so far!) - handspinning fibre braids and a neat new twist - the Twisted Pairs.

Twisted Pairs are a full hank of sock yarn, combined with a half-braid of handspinning fibre, dyed in the exact same lot so they'll match.  Why?  Why not?  Thrummed mittens/socks.  Socks with a handspun & embellished cuff, or toe/heel/cuff.  A shawl with handspun trim or accessories.  And though the current stock is all superwash BFL, I'll consider a feltable fibre for embellisment in future lots, what do you think?

Part 2 of today's update is someone's mistake, and someone else's good fortune.  With my last shipment of stock, I ordered a few pounds of a wool/seacell blend which, unfortunately, does not seem to resemble such a blend, much.  So - it's on sale!  $16 (braids are regular $18-$25) .  It's definitely wool, superwash, and lovely and bouncy, combed top which drafts like a dream.  I just don't know EXACTLY what blend it is.  So - take a chance, make something new.